まるで映画の世界！九份の坂道と夜景をめぐる旅 – Just like a movie set! A journey through Jiufen’s slopes and night views

九份（きゅうふん）は、台湾北部・新北市瑞芳区（シンペイ・ルイファン / ずいほう-く）にある山あいの町で、ノスタルジックな街並みと美しい海の眺望で知られる台湾屈指の観光地です。かつて金鉱の町として栄え、日本統治時代に形成された石畳の路地や建物が今も残ります。金鉱の閉山後に一度衰退しましたが、1989年の映画『悲情城市（ひじょうじょうし）』の舞台となったことで再び注目を集め、観光地として復活しました。

九份の中心は基山街（きさんがい / ジーシャンジエ）と豎崎路（スゥチールゥ）。赤い提灯が灯る石段や路地には、茶藝館（ちゃげいかん）や土産物店、レトロな喫茶店が軒を連ね、夕暮れ時には幻想的な光景が広がります。特に「阿妹茶樓（アーメイチャーロウ）」は『千と千尋の神隠し』のモデルと噂され、多くの観光客が訪れます。ほかにも、伝統的な茶館「九份茶坊（じょうふんつぁーふぁん）」や「水心月茶坊（すいしんげつちゃぼう）」、スイーツの名店「阿柑姨芋圓（アーガンイーユーイェン）」などが人気です。

周辺には、九份と鉱山の歴史を伝える「黄金博物館」や、黄金色に輝く「黄金瀑布」、鉱山跡が残る「金瓜石（キンカセキ）」などの見どころも点在。山と海が織りなす景観と、時が止まったような街並みが訪れる人々を魅了します。かつての鉱山町が、今では「懐かしさと幻想の街」として台湾を代表する観光地となっています。

Jiufen is a mountain village in Ruifang District, New Taipei City, northern Taiwan. Renowned for its nostalgic streetscape and stunning sea views, it ranks among Taiwan’s premier tourist destinations. Once a thriving gold mining town, it retains the stone-paved alleys and buildings formed during the Japanese colonial era. After the gold mines closed, the town declined, but it regained prominence and revived as a tourist destination following its portrayal in the 1989 film “City of Sadness”.

The heart of Jiufen lies around Jishan Street (基山街 / Jīshān Jiē) and Shuqi Road (豎崎路 / Shùqí Lù). Stone steps and alleys illuminated by red lanterns are lined with tea houses, souvenir shops, and retro cafés, creating a fantastical scene at dusk. In particular, ‘Amei Tea House’ is rumoured to have inspired the setting for ‘Spirited Away’, attracting numerous visitors. Other popular spots include the traditional tea houses ‘Jiufen Tea House’ and ‘Shuixin Yue Tea House’, and the renowned dessert shop ‘Aganyi Taro Balls’.

Surrounding attractions include the ‘Gold Museum’ chronicling Jiufen’s mining history, the golden ‘Golden Waterfall’, and the mining ruins at “Jinguashi”. The landscape woven by mountains and sea, coupled with streets where time seems frozen, captivates visitors. This former mining town has now become one of Taiwan’s premier tourist destinations, known as the ‘Town of Nostalgia and Fantasy’.

九份老街
住所：224 台湾 新北市 瑞芳区 [Google Maps]

Jiufen, Old town
住所：Jishan St, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan 224 [Google Maps]

2023/10/20

肉圓（バーワン）。さつまいも粉や片栗粉で作られたモチモチの皮に、豚肉やたけのこなどの具材を包み、揚げたり蒸したりして、甘辛いたれをかけて食べる料理

杏鮑菇（シンバオグー）
屋台でじっくりと焼かれ、アワビに似たコリコリとした食感とジューシーさを楽しめるのが特徴です。注文時に、甘しょうゆベースのタレを塗って焼き、食べやすい一口大にカットして提供されます。

蛋黄酥（タンファンスー）。塩漬けアヒルの卵黄とあんこを、バター風味のパイ生地で包んで焼き上げた台湾の伝統的なお菓子です。中秋節の定番で、パイ生地の香ばしさ、あんこの甘さ、卵黄の塩味のハーモニーが楽しめます。

海辺の町

阿妹茶樓（アーメイチャーロウ）。赤提灯が灯る外観、中国式の伝統的な内装で、お茶を飲みながらゆったりとした時間を過ごせます。特にテラス席からは九份の街並みを望むことができ、人気。お茶は台湾を代表する高山茶「金萱茶（キンセンチャ）」など。台湾茶文化を体験できます。

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2011/06/26

迷い込んだら別の世界に引き込まれそうな雰囲気。

その後1970年代に金鉱が閉山されて衰退したのだけど、
1980年代末に侯孝賢監督の映画「悲情城市」の
ロケ地として使われ、再び脚光を浴びるようになったのだそう。
九份の街並みは日本統治時代の面影があり、レトロな雰囲気の街並みが広がっています。

ところどころに、日本語の看板があります。

「強力推薦　純手工製作」なんとなく書いてあることが理解できます。漢字ってすごい。

お店のおじさんもいい味だしてます。映画にでてきそう。

屋台にでているお店はどこもかなり美味しかったです。そして安い。
千尋の両親みたいについ夢中で食べてしまうのはよくわかります。

街のアクセントになっているピンク色の提灯。

佇んでいるだけの犬も絵になります。

九份の有名なデザートのお店、阿柑姨芋圓茶（アーカンイーユィユェン）にいた猫

これがその九份の名物デザート、芋圓（イーユェン）
小豆たっぷりのお汁粉に、タロイモとサツマイモと緑豆の三色のお餅がはいってます。

猫のたまり場

８時を過ぎると急に観光客がいなくなって静かになります。

さっきまでとはまったく違う雰囲気。

九份から眺める港の夜景

Jiufen – Wikipedia

Jiufen, also spelled Jioufen or Chiufen (Chinese: 九份), is a seaside mountain area in Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan.

History
During the first years of the Qing Dynasty, the isolated village housed nine families, thus the village would request “nine portions” every time shipments arrived from town. Later Káu-hūn-á (Chinese: 九份仔) would become the name of the village.

Despite the earliest reference to the production of gold in the island dating to 1430, and multiple rediscoveries by early inhabitants, visiting Japanese, Dutch occupiers, and Koxinga’s retainers, awareness of the wealth of Taiwan’s gold districts did not develop until the late Qing era. In 1890, workmen discovered flakes of gold while constructing the new Taipei-Keelung railway, and in 1893 a rich placer district was discovered in the hills of Kau-hun that produced several kilograms[a] of gold a day. In the next year, the promise became greater than ever after a Chinese “expert” with experience gained in California found gold-bearing quartz in the said hills.

The resulting gold rush hastened the village’s development into a town, and reached its peak during the Japanese era. In The Island of Formosa, Past and Present (1903), American diplomat James W. Davidson wrote, “Kyu-fun [Kau-hun] is as odd looking a settlement as one could find. never before has the writer seen so many houses in such a small space. Some appear to be partially telescoped in adjoining buildings, other standing above as though unable to force their way to the group, and each structure seems to be making a silent appeal to its neighbor to move over.” Water ran “in many small streams, directed so as to provide each building with a little rivulet, passing sometimes by the doorway or even over the floor of the building.” The claim was owned by the Fujita Company, the first Japanese company to mine quartz in Taiwan and which occasionally made an income of a few thousand yen per month from the Kau-hun gold operations.

Many present features of Jiufen reflect the era under Japanese colonization, with many Japanese inns surviving to this day. During World War II, a POW camp named Kinkaseki was set up in the village, holding Allied soldiers captured in Singapore (including many British) who worked in the nearby gold mines. Gold mining activities declined after World War II, and the mine was shut off in 1971. Jiufen quickly went into decline, and for a while the town was mostly forgotten.

In 1989, Hou Hsiao-hsien’s A City of Sadness, the first film to touch on the February 28 Incident, then a taboo subject in Taiwan, won acclaim around the world. As a result, Jiufen, where the film was set, revived due to the film’s popularity. The nostalgic scenery of Jiufen as seen in the film, as well as appearances in other media, charmed many people into visiting Jiufen. For the beginning of the 1990s, Jiufen experienced a tourist boom that has shaped the town as a tourist attraction. Soon retro-Chinese style cafés, tea houses, and souvenir stores bearing the name “City of Sadness” were built.

Jiufen also became popular in 2001 due to its resemblance to the downtown in the Japanese anime movie Spirited Away by Studio Ghibli. Jiufen soon attracted Japanese tourists. Many Japanese travel magazines and guide books about Taiwan introduced Jiufen. It became a must visit place among Japanese tourists. However, Miyazaki himself denied that Jiufen was the model city of the movie.